Chimney Repair
Finding and fixing the leak at its source
A free inspection comes first, and the repair is priced in writing before any work begins.
Keeping rain out of the flue with a cap
Without a cap, rain falls straight down the flue onto the damper and the smoke shelf. A cap with a solid lid and a screen stops that water and keeps animals out.
The cap must leave enough open area for exhaust to leave freely, and the Florida Building Code sets that area for rain caps on masonry chimneys. We fit caps sized to the flue and fasten them so storms do not lift them. On a chimney with several flues, a single cap that covers them all can be the simpler answer.
Rain or condensation
Burning a fuel produces water vapor along with other gases. In a flue that is too large or too cold for the appliance it serves, the vapor can condense on the cold flue walls and trickle down inside the chimney.
The timing tells the two apart. Rain leaks follow storms, while condensation follows use of the appliance, sometimes on dry days. If the evidence points to condensation, sealing the outside of the chimney will not help, and a correctly sized liner becomes part of the conversation.
Siding and trim on a framed chase
On a framed chase, the siding and trim are part of the weather barrier. Open joints, failed sealant and gaps where the chase meets the roof can let rain into the framing around the metal chimney.
Soft or stained siding, swollen trim and any visible water marks inside the chase are what we look for. Chimney parts are repaired by our team, and siding work outside our scope is named so the right trade can handle it.
Roof water aimed at the chimney
A roof valley, an upper roof or a gutter can send concentrated water against the side of a chimney. That flow can overwhelm flashing that would handle ordinary rain.
Where the water on the roof comes from matters as much as where it goes in. When runoff is part of the cause, we explain the chimney side of the fix and name any roofing or gutter change that would reduce the flow.
